• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

13 TXC310 Suspension Help

Mike Rotella

Mike Rotella

Husqvarna
A Class
Im 5'9" 180 without gear. I mostly ride fast trails made of sand or grass(Florida). Some moto with mainly soft dirt turns and hardpack straights. I also race some amateur Hare Scrambles. The bike seems to want to buck me off, so I slowed down the rear rebound 2 clicks and that stopped. The front feels harsh everywhere. When I flatland on a tabletop, the bike bounces back off the ground, mostly in the rear. When I give it gas coming out of a turn, the rear end breaks loose and comes around enough where I have to let off and straighten out. Kinda frustrating. Any suggestions? I called a few suspension "shops" and they all want $700-$800 plus shipping to make it "right". I just dont believe that there's anything "wrong". I'm not that good, I'm sure stock will work for me.
 
Change out the fork oil to Amsoil 5W and set the oil level at 120mm from the top and see how it rides.
 
A little more complicated on your TXC than my TE, and not quite as simple as just changing the oil level, but it's not that hard. Just follow the instructions in the workshop manual. You've got two oil chambers in your forks, where I only have one open chamber in mine.
 
BTW, did you ask ZipTy how much they would charge to setup your suspension? I thought it only ran around $300 or so...
 
My 12 was way to stiff. I just had WER do the forks and shock. Big difference - He put softer springs up front. 44's - we are about the same height and weight - new springs are not that bad , maybe $120.
 
hey Mike, I'm in the same boat with my '12TXC. Seems I can ship it to ZTR & back & have it done by someone who knows Huskys for less than the guys here in Floriduh want to charge. I did have my fork oil changed after 5hrs & had the level set, cost about $100. Seemed a little better. WER was one of my East Coast options, may have to give Drew a call.....
 
I have a 2012 TXC and the suspension was definitely too harsh for the riding I do. I know $800 sounds like a lot, but for me it was the absolute best money I have spent on a bike. I finally gave in and had Alan Stillwell do my suspension and WOW what a difference. Best money you can spend on a bike...better than exhaust, ecu, big bores etc. I can pound through any type of trail hack. Super smooth and no deflection. No kicking etc., the suspension soaks it all up and I am significantly faster than I was before the suspension work. Stillwell does Cory Grafunder's TXC 310 and the Beta team of Cody Webb and Max Gerston as well as many others. He makes sure your bike is set up for YOU and the riding you do. I highly recommend it.
 
FOR XC racing - i found the 13 suspension to be WAYYYYY too harsh.

i know you dont want to drop the big money, but having the suspension done for you and for the type of riding you do is THE BEST thing you can do to make the ride more controlled and enjoyable.

I spend ~$850 with factory connection - but the difference is night and day. went from being ALMOST an MX suspension to a very plush and balanced XC suspension that can still hit small motocross jumps.
 
For what it's worth.......I have a '12 TXC310 as well and similar body characteristics. I backed off the compression and rebound ALL THE WAY. 100mm (4") of sag. Helped the rear end, but not the front. Midstroke harshness**************************************** Like, hydraulic lock. Removed 15cc of oil through the air bleed hole. Mucho better. Too much oil. Can't afford to 'have' them fixed so a quazi redneck fix was warrented. It works very well in the rocks and blackjacks of Oklahoma. Might even remove another 5cc of oil.
 
Zip Ty quoted me between 5 and 7. Seems to be the going rate since I'm sure they will do a spring change. Then theres the shipping back and forth. Then from what I hear the tank has to be removed and I know I'm gonna break that damn elbow. I dont know, it sure adds up. I've had suspension work done on my race quads many times and I gotta tell ya, I was not very impressed until I bought NEW replacement, high dollar Fox or Axis shocks. But that was back when money didnt matter. LOL!
 
Okie, we ran our race quads with the comp backed out all the way all the time, but never the rebound. And a friend of mine told me to back them out all the way until the break in is over and then just turn them in until I dont bottom out. What about the high speed comp on the rear? should I soften that all the way too?
 
You can back out the high speed and it will reduce the kick you are getting off of sharp edges. Your rebound being slowed down a couple clicks is probably the reason the rear breaks loose and swings around on you. Soften compression and remove some fork oil if it is too stiff.
 
At 190 I'm always amazed when I get on 12 TXC310 how good the suspension is. I had the progressive Merge preload springs installed in the forks when a local guy freshened up the suspension (about $65 for the springs). I have a leaky fork seal so it's interesting to see how the forks change as the oil level drops a little (in one leg) I have found that the clickers are pretty close to right at stock settings with the sag set correctly.

Since you ride a lot of sand you might run just a little more sag - 105-110, and you need the suspension settings a little on the firmer side - about stock. If your free sag is too much with the rider sag set right then your spring is too firm. I would check the rear wheel to make sure it is perfectly aligned (I use the Motion Pro tool that clamps to the rear sprocket). I would check the front forks to make sure they are parallel (I use the Motion Pro tool to measure the distance between the tubes at the bottom clamp and near the axle with everything tightened) I've heard that ZipTy sends one of these forks alignment tools out with each job they do.

Once everything is aligned perfectly you could go out for a day of just 'clicker adjustments'. Ride a mile section a few times to get the feel then turn your rebound all the way out and do a lap. Turn your rebound all the way in and do a lap. Set it 2 or 3 clicks out from stock and do a lap. Go 2 or 3 clicks in from stock and do a lap. keep going back and forth until you get it pretty close to 'right'
Next work on the compression.
Next do the same thing with the rear shock.
 
Shouldn't dealers be doing all this as part of the setup when you buy a bike? Why is sending someone out with an under sprung or over sprung bike acceptable. You'd think they would have a range of springs available so they could at least do a rough setup matching the bike to the riders weight prior to delivery. Instead, the buyer has to take the bike home, take it apart, and install $300 worth of aftermarket springs. I'm a bigger guy, and the extent of my "dealer setup" was their mechanic running the preload adjuster down to the bottom of the threads on the rear shock. As you can guess, this resulted in no free sag, and about 175mm of static sag.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top