'13 TXC starter/drive/flywheel woes..again

Beating a dead horse again,read thru pages of issues regarding starter issues...need some input possibly on machining flywheel...but first here it is in a nut shell."13 TXC 310, vin ending in 00039.Problem started after 5 hours of use, no help from dealer here in Florida(will never deal or send anyone to Palmetto M/S) after 30 days(wasn't able to ride in a month")sorry sir,out of warranty!)But let me get to the problem .Bike starts and runs good all day ,starting with kicker but after replacing the update gear kit,new battery,going thru all wire connections,replacing starter, caged needle bearing for gear behind flywheel and one way clutch ,twice,once with OEM and once from Honda CRF250X the starter won't engage flywheel after about 10 uses.The freewheel will not engage flywheel after a dozen electric starts. It only can be flywheel,correct? Does anyone with machining experience know if I can cut down contact area of flywheel and possibly have a "wear ring" pressed in to bring back to specs(similar to the sleeves used to repair crank seal wear)? If anyone has a new flywheel that could give me the measurement of the thickness of the inner and outer wall of the freewheel contact area,I would greatly appreciate it. The pic is of the flywheel AFTER 5 hours.(I used 220 grit paper to clean it up both times)

Might just be my box but the pics are not viewable ...

Good luck .... I don't see how anything metal can wear so quickly that it is so far out of tolerances that it stops working but maybe ...

Looks like something is wrong there for sure ...

I am no expert. However it would seem obvious to me there is something wrong with that bike causing your issues. There are lemons in every brand. I once seen a 98 husky two stroke husky that was nicknamed the problem child as it would blow up when you let off the throttle. Dealer could not figure it out. And lost in small claims court and even had to buy the riding gear back that the owner bought when he bought the bike!! My point is it would seem to me your bike needs to go to a dealer that lives breathes and races huskys and knows there stuff. I wish I could help more. Hope you get it figured out.

The flywheel for a 2012 txc310 is much cheaper than the flywheel for a 2013. I be curious to see if there really is a difference. If not I would just order a new flywheel for a 12.

...my general trend of thinking is either there was an initial tolerance that was close to or out of spec and during the original hours of use wore a little past the point of no return.Putting in 2 new freewheels and installing the new gear set and bearing may have been temporarily masking the real problem.I was hoping to find a dealer or someone that has a new/almost new one that could mic the wall thickness... of course these specs aren't readily available unless you work for the company that cuts them on a lathe.

Trail Tech sells weighed flywheels for only 194.00 average!Going to contact them and see if I can get them interested in doing the Husky-there are so many possibly defective flywheels out there and if they can do it for under 200.00,I'll be first in line. Will still check with Zip Ty as a back up plan.

what's you're sprang/one way clutch look like. Had you taken it apart. I'm wondering if it was incorrectly assembled and the sprang was dragging inside. There have been some used ones on ebay.
Joe

Model Year 2013 310's are hit or miss from what I am reading and finding out from experience. I guess that is a down side of non-mass produced hand built machines.

I just need more mechanical ability. Good luck with this, as I am working similar issues.

The first sprang/freewheel was replaced after 5 hours of use...starter would spin but not engage flywheel, double checked
the starter, starter drive gear set, the little "key" that holds the gear to shaft. Took flywheel off ,tried to spin sprang/freewheel in both directions ,just spun around. Bought a new freewheel/sprang, cleaned up flywheel engagement point with 220 sandpaper ,thoroughly washed flywheel, installed new sprang exactly the same way it came off. Spun freewheel/sprang in both directions, locked immediately one way ,freewheeled the other, about a dozen times prior to putting it into service. Going to say I got about 12-15 starts before it stopped working .Gave up on it ,pulled all the gears out ,installed TC cover and kickstarted it for several races. After "NEEDING" that electric start badly(getting old and blown out knee)put everything back in but first, installed a new gear drive set (although it was suppose to be replaced by dealer),a new starter, new battery(sold the old one) and a new sprang/freewheel from a Honda CRF250X. Cleaned up flywheel again with 220 grit, thoroughly washed ,installed another gear housing gasket(with hole in correct position).Spun flywheel to make sure it was locking in appropriate direction. Oil changed(have been using Mobil1 0-40 euro car spec oil per Zip Ty along with stainless oil filter). After approximately 12 starts, back to freewheel spinning ,not engaging flywheel!!! I do not rely on electric start but when I do it cranks fast ,starts easily... never had a backfire situation. Every time I assemble sprang/freewheel it is oiled and before initial start up ,I lean bike over for several minutes to allow oil in flywheel area. Whew THAT WAS LONG WINDED

In 2013 for my 2013 TXC310R, We replaced my flywheel for the same issue (my fotos look exactly like yours), the sprag clutch was thoroughly inspected for pitting or wear on the rollers and looked good...we replaced that item as well anyway.
Kawasaki once had a recall/replacement spec for one of their bikes- the criteria was zero evidence marks on the flywheel so when I showed my mech my flywheel his instant response was to replace....my dealer filled out all the warranty paperwork and I got all the update parts along with the new flywheel and sprag clutch........but that was when the bike was within months of purchase.....claiming any warranty....is beating a dead horse for a dead model. remove and replace all the components is your best choice.
It means nothing.. but the entire set up is an engineering mistake...the "worm" gear is the worst way to crank an engine...it has very low mechanical advantage and just takes mega power to get things turning, but that's water under the bridge and the entire system is dead end model (maybe not with Gas-Gas coming on board with the X-Lite...)

It sure sounds like you and the dealer have thrown a lot of parts at this problem. The internet is great for many things but you've tried all the typical solutions and the best advice I can give is to try and find a someone in the area with experience to have a look at the bike. You can only do so much thru typing.. I'm not saying I haven't done the same thing but replacing parts that prematurely fail without a solution is just kicking the can down the road and shortly back to the same spot!

Maybe see if a member in the area can recommend a shop?

I really am contemplating putting on a block off plate and saying a big F U to the starter button. I am looking at $400 (ish) in materials if it is both the starter motor and freewheel, and that is a big "if". I hate throwing money at a problem.

Riding season is starting to ramp up here and I would rather just get a stronger right leg (reality is it takes 1-2 kicks to start).

Can someone open up a husky shop in North Alabama?

Remove the lot and be happy on the lighter weight, on i side note the freewheel should have an outer diameter get a sleeve turned up thats a thin ring out of en24 or something similarly hard the same od as freewheel, a good machinist can fit an interference fit collar/ sleeve to the flywheel no sweat.
I do hope you fix this issue it sucks not having a working bike let alone a nearly new one.

This whole ordeal started with a multi line dealer that never owned up to his end of warranty satisfaction...and since I was a Husqvarna dealer for many years prior ,I expected the same treatment-"NOT"-there is a lot to be said of a dying breed-the Mom and Pop shop. That being said,30 day warranties are better then nothing, but only if you own a daily driver street bike...if you get my drift!
I had my new go-to Husky dealership check the vin for warranty work and low and behold 'nothing"! ..that is why I wasn't just throwing parts at it ..I needed to go back to square one. With all my years of working on m/c and atv's ,I never would have fathomed the flywheel would be the culprit. I tried locating a good used flywheel for weeks and gave up thinking it was a dumb move. I have even written/sent an excessive amount of email to almost every Husky dealer in U.S. and AUSTRALIA...and the ones that responded, said they never had a flywheel failure (even offered to send it to them)."If' I had been able to get a hold of a new flywheel to measure or got said measurements, maybe I wouldn't be writing this. Anything I find/ do to correct this problem, I will definitely pass it on, hopefully saving someone the headaches I've endured.
By the way, beck, find some financial backers/supporters and I will move to Alabama and run that Husky shop...MOM AND POP STYLE!

I got a used flywheel from central jersey cycles before. I do believe he has a bunch of used parts.

I do have a 310 engine sitting here. when I get a chance i can pull the flywheel and measure the i.d.

You shouldnt need the fly wheel measurement all you need is slipper freewheel od and machine the collar to suit will end up an inch wide an a mill or less thick take that outta the fly wheel and press it in.. Like you mentioned in the first post.
Or have i got my wires crossed again.

maybe SWM or gasgas will fix this

The flywheel in that pic is toast.

Yes, the whole E-start systems on this bike are marginally engineered at best. Mine failed the other way..sprag froze to the flywheel and I took it all off and still cannot separate the two.

The 2013 flywheel has slightly different ignition trigger spacing than the 2012..other than that they are identical.

There is a 2013 flywheel and sprag on E-bay as of two days ago. Might still be there.

Might be better to just pull all the E-start stuff off and buy a cap from a TC and have a kick only bike.

No one seems to get more than a couple hundred starts off a x-lite E-Start before something fails.
I kick start my bikes and use the E-start for trail stall restarts only.
Good news is my bikes are 1-2 kick starters.

I would like to know how. Last year I emailed gasgas warning them about this problem.
I don't understand why they dont have their new gasgas 310 (with 4T hva engine) running the National or Europe enduro championship this 2015 year. It's the best way to try their new concept bike and see what goes right and what goes bad (e-start system , indeed) before selling them ...