• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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1.6 bar radiator cap with stock hoses?

HUSKYnXJnWI

Husqvarna
AA Class
Anyone running a 1.6 bar radiator cap with stock hoses?

I believe the stock rad cap on my 09TE450 is a 1.2. Recently bought a 1.6. I think the pressure difference is 16lbs to 24lbs. Hoping the stock hoses are up to the added pressure. I don't think I will have the additional cash for the silicone hoses right now... Also hope this would not endanger other gaskets/seals.....Experience? thoughts?
 
I will be interested to hear input. Is the primary/only reason for running a higher pressure cap is to prevent boil over? I would think boilover periodically would be preferable to incrased pressure on hoses and gaskets sealing off the coolant area.
 
Yes- just trying to figure out if that change (1.2-1.6) is even near a concern....

here's some info on what this affects from my understanding....
1- caps do go bad- and can prematurely release coolant than they are designed to (replace)
2- releasing coolant from the cap is different than Boiling- 99% you aren't boiling in the rads when they release.
3- raising the caps "bar" or lbs or point that they release- increases not only the "release point" it also increases the "boiling point" because liquid under pressure Boils at a higher temp.
4-once the liquid releases the presure changes- the pressure decrease now changes the boiling point to lower- so now you may notice boiling liquid. Once boiling-cooling ability is affected.

the 1.6 bar is pretty common and easy to get (Ktm is the only company that uses a unique cap- so you can use any cap made accept those- based on my reading/observations) I wanted a new cap (replace) but got a 1.6 as it is so common- I am pretty sure I just need a new cap- but one with a shightly higher bar# I believe would benifit me- maybe a 1.4 would be more appropriate than the 1.6- looking for more info on that here.... (they make 2.0 bars- which I am pretty sure is not a good idea with stock parts and hoses where a 1.2 is stock...)

I think Robertaccio is using a 1.4 and probably knows more about this all.
 
What are you running for coolant ? I have an 09 TE510 I've had excellant results using Engine Ice even in the North east stick farms . I still have the overflow tank on mine although I think that I may have to replace it soon it doesn't appear to be very durable. One more question who makes the silicon hose set for our bikes ?
 
I have a 1.6 on my 2000 Yamaha with 12yr old hoses and I ride it in tighwoods enough to boil it over.

I NEVER boiled over any Husky EVER.
 
For reference- I don't have any complaints- I haven't "boiled" to my knowledge, but I have had coolant exchanged to the overflow and in hot tight trails without a break, it has violently exchanged (maybe close to a boil if not) a few times- but this is rare. However it seams to do exchange more easily than it used to: hence I believe its time for a new cap.

Thinking the 1.6 may offer an advantage over the stock one (less exchange/consistent pressure)- Looking for confirmation that it won't cause more problems than not.

Waserman- here's a source- there out there: http://www.oppracing.com/product_display/11579-samco-sport-silicone-radiator-hose-kit/
I use non silicate prestone 50/50 with Maxima Coolaid. Though I also bought Engine Ice to swap out this spring- along with the new cap.My overflow tank is in good shape but will buy a new cap for that as well due to the seal getting deformed.

So R_Little, you think the 1.6 should not cause an issue with stock hoses-? In the end, if I don't get much more feedback: I'll test in my woods and if I blow a hose I can push it home and get new hoses/and stock cap. I just have alot going on and may not have my spring prep complete prior to having carpul and cubital tunnel surgery in a week and a half.... So I am somewhat in a planning stage- no serious riding again until May (I HOPE at least)
 
Go to the auto store and get a foot or 2 of 5/8" heater hose and take it with you, I am carrying a piece with me now, full-time. I had to replace one of my hoses with this stuff and it seems to be better quality than the OEM stuff AND it's cheap as heck.

GOOD LUCK with the surgery!

HuskyHeaterHose.jpg
 
I think it will be fine. BTW, if it is "violently exchanging" I'd consider it "boiling over"
2 times- in 3 years- both times it was "zero track"- no trail- no line- just a general attempt to head in a direction through tight woods for way too long (pre-running when we shoulda been walking) I think Meatloaf wrote that song..:D-
 
My 2010 TE250 never really gets the radiators too hot too touch.

I'd better check my water pump and make sure it is turning!
 
Was recommended in the 2005 models to get a Kwaka cap at circa 1.6 psi.
I do not think it will harm at all and it will retard early boil over. I have yet to boil over on my 511, 2x450's and 2x 310's. It gets hot in Aussie and I weight 255 and do onlt sf stuff (adequately)
 
Thanks guys- :thumbsup:
I figure I just needed a "new cap" and would probably be just fine with that.
Truth is I got a 1.6 rad cap for 15$ from RockyMountainAtvmc- cheap replacement and possible upgrade. I'll report my feedback if any- when I get a chance to ride (month+ away):(
1.2 bar is pretty light compared to many bikes- I believe current KTM's come with them stock and they "upgrade" to a 1.8 or 2.0.

-anecdotal story>> My cousin blows coolant once every 3 rides on his 06 450 KTM- we tell him to bleed that system but I won't tell him to buy a new rad cap (original and probably working at a .9 bar at this point)... Its a nice show and I get a break when I won't admit I want one... and get to blame it on him. SOmetimes (but rare) we just leave him there with his smoke show.... talk about the bears and cougars being attracted to the sweet smell up trail at a safe distance.
:popcorn:>>-
 
It's all good ridaable trail there in Northern WI!

Nowadays those are the best of days- stupid is as stupid does- if your gonna be dumb you gotta be tough... the rest is just for those who judge us. Lets remind some of how this all started this year.
 
To get on track your 1.6 you want to put on should be fine , if not we'll see if you can attract some bear. To get off track so your opening a bar? Heard something about a bar or was it 2 BARs?
 
not to jack this thread, but way more often than not, when HUSKYnXJnWI contributes, its worthy and good info, so my question is: it seems pretty regular that I get overflow(?) out of the coolant bottle cap, which spews or drips down onto engine cover and dries in a white chalky dry residue. What causes this? Is the cap bad? 2012-04-06_20-18-52_606.jpg
 
Thanks for the kind words- :cheers:, I hope I offer some good info if I can.
-Some people notice 'very small amounts" coming out of that overflow cap-spillage really- and that could be caused by the overflow cap in your pic itself... but its design is not to 100% contain the liquid perfectly because it has to also release air. So yea that cap can leak- I never noticed it- even with the inside of the cap being deformed. I did just get a new overflow cap...(overfilling the overflow could be an issue for this spillage as well- I use the "Min line".

-If it is spewing out that little hole like you said- that is because the radiator released and it is under pressure- unless you are in really tight trail going really slow and its a rare occurrence. I'd suggest changing the radiator cap- to a new one. Whether you get a stock one (1.2 bar) or a 1.4 or 1.6. your rad cap could be releasing early (yes its still hot and under pressure) or you could be to the boiling point. But the 1.2 (stock cap) releases well prior to boil it seems.

The issue is once it releases- the pressure decreases, this pressure decrease=a decrease in the temp needed to boil- thus now you may be boiling... and I am not trying to go nuts and ride my bike while "overheating" and it not giving indication of it- by going to the 1.6 I just hope to delay the process a little and keep a more stable pressure, with less exchange. Once its boiling the cooling ability is greatly decreased- harder to recover.

My stock cap when new would kind of sip fluid back and forth from the overflow without me noticing it but the level in the tank-I think my rad cap got weak and yours as well. So I'd say get a new cap in your case as I did.
 
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