09 TE310 Slave cylinder

I ran the Delaware State Enduro last weekend and about a quarter of the way through it my clutch wouldn't disengage . I was unable to timely get to my reservoir cover as bark busters interfered with rotating it upwards so I finished by removing two clutch springs . Found on here that the piston was a common cause of it and ordered one through one of the C H sponsors . As I disassembled the slave cylinder this what I had found ( see attached pics ) ,the snap ring was off and setting against the case bearing . The edge of the slave cylinder was missing enough of the edge to allow the snap ring to come off . I didn't touch the clutch lever during any of the removal process . I 'm just curious if anyone else had this issue or what some others may think what caused this .

Here are the pics

That's a classic sign of the clutch lever being pulled when the slave is un-mounted from the bike. When mounted, the clutch rod and the clutch pack act as a "stop agent", or a limit to how far the hydraulic fluid will push the slave piston. I believe you that you didn't pull the lever, but in that case, the bolts holding the slave must have come loose enough to allow the hydraulic pressure to push far enough inside the slave cylinder to hit the snap ring and shatter the retaining part of the cylinder.

Do you mean that you had no clutch, that the clutch would not de-couple the motor from the trans?

Correct ,a full pull of the clutch lever and bike would still have low speed forward movement . I would hold the break and upon release the bike would take off. As for the cover all the all of the bolts were tight and I noticed that when I loosened the bottom one last some oil ran down the case .

If the slave was tight to the motor, and the clutch pack bolts were all tight, I have no way to explain how the hydraulic stream pushed so far as to break the snap ring area. The only other thing I can think of is that if something like a pebble or a piece of branch caught in the clutch lever area, and actually got in between the lever knub and the master piston and that would cause the clutch slave piston to push farther than it's supposed to.

There may be a problem in the clutch that allowed more travel. If something like a stick or pebble caused more MC piston travel the pushrod should have still stopped the slave piston travel.
BTW I got a much improved slave cylinder for my 450 from Ziptie for less money.

Yes, you're right.

http://www.ziptyracing.com/husqvarna-clutch-slave-cover/

Similar failure on my 2009txc250. No idea what caused it as I hadn't ever messed with the slave cylinder but don't know about prev owner. I feel that the OEM design is poor being too thin of edge margin and soft alum.

I replaced with the ZipTy version and have been happy since.

Thanks for the input guys , I do have a Midwest Mountain Engineer clutch lever and will check the piston travel set screw . The metal on the stock one doesn't appear to be to hearty . I called ZipTy this morning and they are shipping one out today .Thanks for the heads up on that one , I will post my finding when I get it in and install it .

Check or replace the rod that goes from the slave cylinder through the case to the clutch basket on the other side. I have an 07 TE250 and experienced the same problem. When I matched the new rod to the old one the old one was almost an 1/8 inch shorter. The end of the rod wears if you ride hard and use your clutch alot.
The rod simply slides out from the slave cylinder side. Very easy to replace while you are doing the slave and was inexpensive through Halls Husqvarna.

Well I'm still in the process of fixing the clutch drag issue . I installed the new slave cylinder from Zipty with the 7602 piston then reverse bled it three times with full syringes.The clutch would work at first then start dragging real bad . Things that I have found are that the anodizing in the bore of the master cylinder is worn out in a third of it , something must have gotten into the clutch lever adjustment rod as it had a slight bend to it . I honed out the bore with some 600 grit wet sand paper and it is a little better but not right . As of now I'm waiting on a new push rod , master cylinder and adjustment pin from MME . My bike has always had a slight drag to it since picked it up with only 280 miles on it , hopefully this will correct it after the parts are installed . I also checked the basket for wear and found none at the friction plate ,the basket is all smooth .

The new cylinder & PR should fix it. Good call.
I think anodizing can be a little hit and miss, depending on the person (s) shuffling the parts racks around. Timing and proper solution is paramount.

I installed all of the new parts and it still has a slight drag to it . Parts list is a Zip Ty slave cyl , 7602 piston , push rod , new master ,new plunger rod for MME (as I found the old one slightly bent) and oil change . I bled the system with three full syringes of oil . Seems to get worse the longer I ride , but not consistent ,but no where near as bad as it was . So for now I'm just going to keep on running it .

My story is a mirror image of yours, but it leads to a tip:
When I installed Honda CRF450 clutch plates into my TE450, I found that they were a little thinner than the OEM Husky plates, thus my OEM length pushrod was holding the clutch open a little, causing slipping under acceleration. I needed the thinner plates to come closer together so I shortened the puhrod by about a 16th of an inch, problem solved.

Since you say that your clutch has dragged since almost new, I believe it is possible that tolerances on your bike (cases, case gaskets, clutch plates, all combined) might be creating a cross-width that the OEM pushrod is just not long enough to completely push the clutch plates out. You could remove the pushrod, and make a new one from stainless rod material, and make it a quarter of an inch longer than OEM, or shim the OEM rod with a very thin washer.

My clutch drags some too. I talked to Ty about it. He says his slave cylinder is exact same size as huskys. I had a 7206 piston. He put a stock one back in. Said they drag and not to worry about it.

I worry about it when bike won't start in gear or when can't shift into gear with out engine stall.

Too bad on your issue here... I've had like zero issues with my HYDRO clutches except for a couple oRing change ... My 08 TXC250 has > 17,000 miles and only 2 oring changes ... My other bikes zero issues but their mileage is much much less ...

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If I put dino oil in the TXC, the clutch drags very badly so I must use some brand of fully synthetic oil ...

PS -- These hydro clutch work so well for feathering ...I'd almost spring for adding one to my 08 WR250 ...

I should add, I use the clutch all day long with almost all cornering and on any straightaway\climb where I need to help the rear-wheel hook up ... Flawless is all I can say about these bikes ...

And all that engineering on stock parts sounds spooky to me ..

I just broke my slave cover last night. I had the cover off and squeezed the clutch lever before taking the retaining clip off and it broke the rim. See photos. Zip-Ty Racing still has these parts available.

I've never owned a bike with a Magura hydro clutch but... I have never understood why the slave piston needs to be travel limited by a snap ring?

seems like over-travel destroys the cylinder; as opposed to just a piston popping out. Can anyone explain that one to me?