250-500cc 09 300 fork fluid level

Hello, changing out my fork seals. Wondering how much fluid to remove with the little vacuum syringe device that sucks out the excess? What should it be set at?

Finally found the manual stored in a dark corner of my laptop. 120mm!! If I'm reading that incorrectly, please let me know. Any tricks to this? I've had lots of issues with these seals not lasting very long for some reason, so figured I'd give it a go myself.

120 is what I used to set mine at.
If you want better seal life from them take the seal spring off and undo it (tapers into its self) and cut about 6mm 1/4" from the blunt end then screw them back together, fit back on the seal and fit. You will not notice any added stickyness in use and the seals will last for years in comparison to stock.
I have done this to all my zokes and friends and havent had a leaker yet and on a mates forks and I did his over 5 years ago and other than fluid changes his are still holding on with not a hint of a leak .

Interesting mod Johnnyboy ..

In addition to that I would also check the chrome plating closely, some little chips or tips from stones could have created some highspots that accelerate seal wear. Some fine grit sandpaper (1000) with oil can be used to remove those spots. In one occasion with some nasty scratch I even filled the grooves with some metal welding NURAL (epoxy) and sanded once cured. Worked like a charm...

You can set the level from 110-130mm I set mine at 130 and then if I want it a little more firm on the 1st inch or two of travel I can add about 12cc which will raise the level 10mm. You can add oil through the air bleed hole with a syringe.

Great to know. what did you use to cut that spring to get a clean cut? Hit it with a angle grinder? clip it with dike/cutting plier?

Just snip it off with a good fine set of side cutters NOT a friggin great set of bolt cutters lol

Are you sure ???? adding oil firms the forks from the mid stroke up and dosnt do a thing for the first bit of travel in all of my testing !

To a certain extent the air gap has to compress before the hydraulic fluid starts moving through the valving. These two are happening at the same time or slightly staggered so it's very possible that the mid would also become stiffer quicker because the air mattress on top of the fluid is compressed and firm long before you are in the mid. One of the biggest problems I had with my 09 50mm zokes was no spring preload, I think it was -3mm from the factory. This caused too much sag plus I gave up the first soft part of the travel and was in the mid on the small stuff.

Thank you sir! Tomorrow nights project