• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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08 TE 450 problems after minor rebuild

13101093

13101093

Husqvarna
B Class
Hi all, new to the forum first post.

The above bike i have stripped down, repainted the frame and reassembled. Before doing this i had just replaced the fuel pump with the one from high flow fuel california and the bike was running fine before i took it apart. During the rebuild i damaged the plug to the TPS, bought another harness and replaced the plug by soldering the wires.

Thats the background of my problem

When i turn the key on the bike normally would prime the fuel pump for three seconds, this happens for maybe a quarter of a second. and the same occurs if i switch power on/off not using the key but the red on/off button above the starter button. the bike will turn over but not start due to the fuel pump not running. Also the green neutral light flashes which i understand is a FI system problem of sorts.

i have tried changing starter relays, battery reset, changing fuses, inspecting and reconnecting all the plugs i can think of, and it makes no difference if the TPS is plugged in or not...

i am still rebuilding the forks so for now i cannot take it to a dealer but is there any suggestions as to what i can try in the meantime?

Thanks
 
I had the exact same thing happened to me after a head gasket replacement, and it had nothing to do with the gasket replacement process. My fuel pump relay was also clicking on and then off within 1/4 of a second and I also have an aftermarket fuel pump that I had to wire spade connectors on the bike's wires, I had only put protection on the positive wire and it wore thru after 2 years and 12,000 miles, and was shorting out. Also, I have read that insufficient voltage (low battery) can also produce the same relay quick-fail symptom. Check your fuel pump wiring and check your battery voltage.

HuskyBadConnex_zpsf0ab4e75.jpg
 
Thanks for the reply, i pulled the pump out of the tank and checked the wiring but all seems good, as well as what i can see from the harness, the pump i got plugged straight into the stock harness so it is all pretty fine. The battery i have on charge at the moment and i will try it again later but i am not suspicious of it because it is fairly new and the bike turns over fine, any other suggestions?
 
I switched the relays around, all 3 of them, and all 3 would do the same thing, so I knew it was not the relay itself. You better re-check your wiring repair on the TPS and check for other bare spots on wires that might be grounding out, especially the Green wire with red stripe..
 
I will try re-solder the TPS plug wiring, although if i unplug it then try, it makes no difference, is that telling me something?
 
TPS has been resoldered, and spent some time today checking all resistances in sensors etc but still nothing dodgy. Next step will be off to the dealer to get it connected to IBEAT
 
Okay progress, had it checked at the dealer and the fault is COIL OPEN CIRCUIT FAULT, so naturally the first thing i checked is spark, no spark, and my next check is earth, battery negative to coil earth is low resistance so all good there, then i checked if the coil is getting power and the green and red wire has power but only for the same time the fuel pump runs, which is half a second. can anyone elude to why its power might be getting cut other than a stuffed coil?
 
13101093 said:
Okay progress, had it checked at the dealer and the fault is COIL OPEN CIRCUIT FAULT, so naturally the first thing i checked is spark, no spark, and my next check is earth, battery negative to coil earth is low resistance so all good there, then i checked if the coil is getting power and the green and red wire has power but only for the same time the fuel pump runs, which is half a second. can anyone elude to why its power might be getting cut other than a stuffed coil?
Click to expand...

It may not solve your problem, but when my fuel pump was priming for only a half second instead of the full 2 seconds, there was a grounding out of the Green wire with red stripe (see pic above). Put your multimeter or a test light on a Green wire with red and then put the other lead to ground, see if there is continuity.
 
yeah i did exactly that and checked the whole wire as much as i could see but no issues, although i am pretty sure i have found my problem and it is the coil itself.

Primary winding is 4.7 ohm which is within spec and the secondary winding is 21Kohm when it is supposed to be 4.5-5.5Kohm. So the ECU has detected the incorrect resistance through the Signal wire (brown/white) and its inbuilt timer for powering the fuel pump (green/red, which also powers the injector and other sensors) cuts it off after the 1/4 second as an inbuilt safety. That is my guess at the ECU logic and how it deals with the bad coil but this will all be confirmed when my new coil arrives and if the bike will run or not.

Interestingly if you disconnect the injector the same thing happens but the pump or power to the green/red wire runs for like 1/8 of a second so that would be another ECU safety feature that if there is a problem with the injector it wont run the pump.

Hopefully if this is confirmed anyone else with similar problems can read this and learn how it works just like i did.
 
13101093 said:
The above bike i have stripped down, repainted the frame and reassembled.
Click to expand...

Did you test the coil with it mounted on the bike?
Did you paint the mounting studs where the coil attaches?
Did you sand the paint off of the studs?

The bike was running fine before the teardown, I just think it's so unlikely that the coil failed while it was sitting around waiting to be re-installed on the bike.


Here is a post from another thread where a guy who thought he had a coil problem.

Jornum1 said:
My Husky has been sitting for a few months. Last time I used it, its fired up fine with a jump from my Schumacher charger(battery was about shot). I try to start her up the other day(with a new battery) and all I get is a momentary spark, then nothing.
Click to expand...

Jornum1 said:
Success! When I originally tested the coil, I cleaned the mounting areas on the coil but not the frame. You guys know how the coil is stuffed up there, I just forgot. I looked up there after testing the coil again just to make sure and both points were rusted over pretty good. Cleaned them up and I have a good strong spark now!
Click to expand...
 
On a coil, having the secondary out of spec is rare. Usually you get intermittent opens. I agree with OHR that it sounds like a grounding issue to the frame. Without the ECU checking and stopping the fuel the bike would probably run, although poorly. Thats on of the new evils of bike/car control systems. They are smart enough to detect a wide variety of problems but not setup to tell you what they are without additional diagnostic gear. Cam.
 
Coil was tested off the bike, same as is shown in the manual
The studs were sanded back to metal

Yes i agree thats the only issue i have with my theory is why did the coil fail just sitting around? its got me buggered but i have had it with cars before where one morning the car wont start and the coil has suddenly died.

when i get my new coil i will be checking the resistances before i put it on.
 
Sorry to hijack your thread, but I see some knowledgable people watching this thread and it might be a helpful discussion relating to your problem.

I have been having issues with my 2010 TE 450. It acts like it is hitting a rev limiter, stalling, not starting and flooding when trying to start. I checked the mounts and leads to the coil and everything looked secure. I pulled the coil and tested it. I got an "open" when testing between the the grounding/mounting block and the spark plug grip on the coil wire. The only resistance measurment I could get at all was between the plug grip and either of the small leads, which were both 25 ohms. So I thought what the hell?! sanded and cleaned the coil mount spot on the frame and put everything back together. I disconected the fuel pump plug, and checked the plug for spark. (Spark plug in the coil wire held against the engine block to complet the ground.) I DID have spark, not bright white or blue spark, but consistent. I put everything back together and the bike started pretty easily. I let it idle while I got my helmet and jacket on and then when I gave it a few small revs, it died again and would not start. Fuel pump seems to be running/priming normally and sometimes flooding the bike badly when cranked for more than a few seconds.

So I guess my question is exactly how are you testing your coil?

If I was testing it correctly (seems pretty simple, I don't know how I could be dorking it up) Is it possible to infact have an open circuit reading and the coil still work at all?

Before I took everything apart, I checked the plug for spark by just removing the fuel pump relay. I saw no spark when I did that. Is the fuel pump relay required to complete the circuit for the coil, or is my spark intermittent?

If I can't determine that my coil is the issue, I think my next step is to buy the Ibeat and use that for trouble shooting. But I'm a cheap :censored:

Thanks for any help and good luck to you 13101093!
 
dumas said:
Before I took everything apart, I checked the plug for spark by just removing the fuel pump relay. I saw no spark when I did that. Is the fuel pump relay required to complete the circuit for the coil, or is my spark intermittent?
Click to expand...


Yes, the Green wire with red stripe is incredibly important, connecting
Fuel Injector
Fuel pump relay
Fuel pump
Coil


HuskyWireBareDiagram.jpg



My problem was a bare spot on this wire, with sporadic symptoms


HuskyWireBare.jpg
 
Thanks, that makes sense. I tried to look at all the wires and connectors over and everything looks ok. The bike is new to me and only has ~500 miles so I really don't expect there to be much wire chaffing. There is a bit more to the story as this all started after I installed a JD tune kit. The bike ran great for about 20 miles then started missing and finally died. I removed the kit on the side of the road, had trouble starting it and when it did finally start it ran poorly as if were fuel starved above ~5000 rpm. It hasn't been right since. I was hoping maybe with all the work I had disturbed or loosened the coil or its connectors. I'll start my own thread rather than bugger up this one.

Thanks for chiming in though, OHR. I've been reading through your posts. It looks like you have been there done that on many issues. :cheers:
 
Ok problem has been found, i waited ages for a new coil and bench tested it... same resistances as my old coil...bugger, so went poking around the harness again and found the red/white signal wire on the back of the ECU plug was loose, pushed it back in and presto.
 
Thanks for posting the resolution, these bikes vibrate more than we can feel, it's a vibration that really moves things around. That's the White with red stripe wire that goes directly from the coil into the ECU, hopefully you are good to go, others with problems will be checking their White with red stripe wire!
 
Ok problem has been found, i waited ages for a new coil and bench tested it... same resistances as my old coil...bugger, so went poking around the harness again and found the red/white signal wire on the back of the ECU plug was loose, pushed it back in and presto.
Click to expand...

I haven't had time to work on mine for a while. I looked at this wire last night and it looks like it is under tension/stretched tight from the loom to the plug that goes into the ECU. It also looks as if the fuel line could be putting pressure on the plug and especially this wire. I pulled the ECU out and strapped it on the outside of the side panel so I could wiggle it or whatever if the bike started cutting out. Fired the bike up and it ran just fine! I rode it through 2 "heat cycles" (rode for about 10 min to bring it up to opereating temps and then let it cool for about 20 min.) I still have the "fail" message on the display. Will that correct itself if the fault goes away after a few heat cycles?

13101093 - What were your readings when you tested your coil? I had open when I tested primary to ground as explained in the manual. The limit is 12 Ohms I believe. I don't think there is anything wrong with my coil either. Is the book wrong on this?
 
Your being a 2010 and mine a 2008 i dont have a fail message but a flashing neutral light, and mine did go away as soon as i had fixed the wire. Yes i adjusted my harnes a bit to take the pressure off that wire because mine was exactly as you had described, under tension. When i tested my coil the primary winding - between the positive lug and the signal lug - was 4.7ohm and the secondary winding - between either the positive lug or the signal lug and the end of the lead - was 20Kohm. I believe my book at least was wrong on the secondary winding reading as it said the limit was 5.5Kohm however i had 2 coils at 20Kohm.
 
I'm currently battling this exact same problem. Power relay wont stay on. I replaced my coil as well due to the secondary testing at 20K as apposed to the 5K listed in the manual. But I think we now can conclude that the book is wrong.

I've checked all wiring for breaks or shorts and can find none. But I will admit that this happened right after a wash so I'm not ruling out a very hidden wiring problem.

One thing I noticed is that the relay will stay on a bit longer with the coil connected. With coil out of the loop it clicks off almost immediately.

Any insights would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
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