250-500cc 00' Wr360 Won't Start_data/findings_help

Help request for non-running 00’ WR360 from Joaquin in Glenville NC
2000 Husqvarna WR360
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History:
Purchased used 19 August 2019, had been sitting in owner’s garage for 2-3 years unused. Owner said it was running when parked.
The moto appeared used but in visually in very good condition.
Has an R&D Husqvarna Australia decompression head and Victa auto-decompression valve. Original Kokusan rotor/stator and original CDI/Coil. Has FMF exhaust.
After carburetor disassembly and cleaning, the engine idled briefly but stalled when throttle applied.
Started with difficulty with throttle in open position – blew out decompression valve foam filter from housing. Found that the auto decompression valve stem was broken. Ordered a used long shaft valve and diaphragm rebuild kit in Australia and installed it. Exhaust removed to confirm there were no obstructions. Piston appeared visually good through exhaust port and through spark plug hole. Compression feels strong without decompressor, but much easier to turn over with it installed.
Ran briefly (enough to get a psi reading) when compression tester put in place of decompression valve – used engine stop switch to stop engine. Saw small spark when checking spark plug (actuating kick starter by hand while viewing plug)
Removed carburetor again to recheck pilot jet and adjust float height (17mm). Very brief, intermittent engine sputter since then (with/without choke), cleaned and checked all electrical connections, took continuity readings (the only values found were from online forums – no specifications found in service manual, please confirm values with my readings below).
Changed fuel from canned 2 stroke (1:40) to self mix non ethanol 1:40
Removed flywheel rotor with OEM part to confirm Woodruff key is present and to check stator timing mark aligned with case mark and visually inspect stator/rotor – all appear OK. (see continuity readings below).

Latest – cannot get engine to fire with or without decompression valve
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Electric Test Values Note, all connections cleaned (including engine/frame mount), stator visually inspected and timing mark to case confirmed (rotor removed and key is intact).

Stator Trigger, Lighting, Charge Coil: 2.0 ohms (yellow to earth), from generator to voltage regulator
Stator Pulse, Pickup Coil: 127 and 135 ohms (blue to light blue), from generator to CDI

Ignition Coil – low tension: 1.0 ohms (white/blue to earth)
Ignition Coil - high tension (total with cap) 18.8 ohms, without cap 14.0 ohms, cap only 4,8 ohms

Engine Stop Switch: (white to earth, OK ground), from CDI to ground and black switch ground OK to ground

CDI to Coil: (white/blue) 0.9 ohms to ground, (black/white), OK to ground

Voltage Regulator: cleaned mount and contact (yellow to ground OK)

Spark Plug NGK B8 EGV (new) with 0.6 mm gap
Carburetor: Keihin PWK 38 – disassembled: appeared clean inside, no orifices obstructed
Needle: Keihin DDJ
Slide: 7
Main Jet: 172
Pilot Jet: 42
Pilot Screw (1.5 turns out)
Idle Screw (1.5 turns out)
Elevation: 3,500 feet


Other:
Victa Decompression Valve- rebuilt, functions correctly
HiFloFiltro: cleaned/oiled
FMF Gnarley Exhaust removed - no obstructions found
Reed Valve removed - nothing unusual seen
Intake Manifold Boot and Boot to air filter - both intact and pliable
Fuel: Home Depot canned, synthetic two-stroke fuel 1:40 and non-ethanol 1:0 mix with Amsoil two stroke synthetic oil (both fuels 92 octane)
Compression: 163 psi (engine ran briefly with compression gauge attached)

It seems like you have really done a lot here. Not sure this will help but here's my 2 cents.. I had a '95 KX 125 with a similar issue. If there is fuel and spark, it should run, given all that you have checked/verified. I ended up using a little dropper to put some premix into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and got it to go. You could also try ether (starting fluid). If it fires with either of these, you know you have a fueling issue. If not, you know you have an electrical issue. Pilot jet (starting jet) orifices are very small and can get clogged easily. Sometimes worth another check if it is a fueling issue. I usually just put a new one in to be safe. You might also go up a size on the pilot jet if it remains difficult to start.

my 99 and 98 360's are hard to start
replaced the ignition on the 99, now it starts fine
here's a trick I learned, it apples to most big bores
the piston cross section needs fuel to cover it, hold kill button, no throttle kick 3 times with fuel enricher on, the release kill button and kick with no throttle
usually starts right away
fyi this is for cold start

Ya, I have a similar trick for starting big-bores 2premo, I click the transmission in 2nd gear and rock the bike back and forth 5-6 times to prime the cylinder before kicking. Makes even my old KTM 495 beast relatively easy to start..